Satin Stitch Options

Satin stitches are, in my mind, the most versatile of stitch types at an embroidery designer's disposal. They can be one throw across, patterned, or be converted to a contour stitch. The nicest feature of this stitch type is that you can control and manipulate the stitch directions throughout the shape to add more life and movement.
The most impact is achieved with a true single throw satin stitch, as this will reflect the most amount of light and truly stand out against the rest of the stitch types in a designs. Sometimes however the area you need to cover is wider than a single throw will practically reach, so you really have to divide up the stitches, and you have many choices as to how you do that.
Standard pattern
The simplest way to divide up the stitches in your satin column is to apply a pattern, this can include something as simple as a random fill to the more defines corn row pattern. You can also make the stitching in each one of the patterns longer to impart more sheen or shorter to make the pattern more pronounced.
Embossed pattern
If you choose an embossed pattern you can give it a more defined texture, you can even choose your own motif to carve out of the pattern.
Contour
Opting for a contour fill can totally change the entire personality of the stitch. You can transform a silky satin stitch to a very patterned and snaky combination of undulating running stitches.
Whatever you choose be aware that you can apply just about any personality to a simple satin stitch, with the switch of a few property options.

File Formats

KPD Compositions allows to to output your designs in over 32 different file formats, which include both home embroidery and commercial embroidery file types. With all of these formats to choose from there is virtually no customer for which you are unable to produce designs. When shopping for software make sure that you start by listing all of your needs and as you view the many choices out there check off all of the feature on your list one by one.

Fabric Facts

To understand the impact embroidery is going to have on the products upon which you are placing it, you first need to understand how the various different fabrics affect the designs you are embroidering on them.
Woven Versus Knit
Knits stretch and because of that they require a stable backing and enough underlay to connect the fabric to that backing so that the knit can't move during the embroidery process and in doing so, cause the design to become distorted. Woven fabrics are a lot more forgiving, they only stretch on the bias, so if they are firmly hooped and have a minimum of underlay and a sufficent backing, you should not have to worry about design distortion.
Needles
The size of your needle should relate to the weight of your fabric, a heavy weight fabric such as canvas or denim requires a larger needle. for fine fabrics you want to use a small needle for example, a 65/9 or a 70/10 as a smaller needle will make a smaller hole and do less damage to the fabric.
The point of the needle is chosen by the fabric, ballpoint for knits and sharp for woven fabrics. Ballpoint needles will push the fibers of the knit aside so that they aren't broken in the embroidery process which would cause the knit to run. Sharp needles are best for woven fabrics because they cause the least amount of friction as they pierce the fabric and make the cleanest perferation, helping to keep your lines crisp.
If you are embroidering on a fabric with a texture, whether it is knit or woven underlay is essential for flattening out the fabric so that the embroidery is not lost in the indentations or overemphasized in the raised areas. Fabric with a definite pattern such as twill or pique require a running stich underlay along the edge of the columns to keep them from following the grain of the fabric.
Each fabric has different needs once you understand how to inherent differences of
the array of goods you embroidery you will understand how to overcome them.

Applique Basics

The introduction of appliques to your digitizing projects can reap both creative and practical rewards. The use of appliques can allow you to reduce the stitch count of your designs by as much as 80%. This will, of course, reduce the sewing time by almost as much, once you factor in the extra time necessary to place and tack down the applique or appliques.
Another benefit of using appliques, especially in large designs, is that it can be used to replace large areas of fill stitches, which can tend to make the design area stiff and uncomfortable to wear.
Digitizing
If your software has an automatic applique function (as in KPD Compositions Pro), the following steps will be added for you. First a placement line (running stitch)is digitized and followed by a stop code or color change. This will stop the design so that you can lay down the applique. Next a tack down stitch (either a zig zag or running stitch) is digitized so that the applique will be secured to the base fabric and then the applique is finished off with either a zig zag or satin stitch.
Techniques
There are a few different ways to cut out the appliques, and the choice of technique is based upon the amount of designs in the job order and the frequency that you use appliques in your designs.
Hand-cut
Hand cutting your designs is the most labor intensive and is a practical alternative only for very small jobs or samples or in an emergency when there is no time to send out the fabric to be cut. There are two methods commonly used, template and cutting on the machine. To create a template for your applique, hoop a light cardboard on you machine and sew out the applique placement line on the cardboard. You can then cut along the perforations and use this template to trace out and cut your appliques. You may also choose to cut the appliques in the hoop. To do this, digitize your tack down stitch inside the middle of the finishing satin stitch. Place a square of appliques fabric large enough to cover the entire appliqued area, and stitch it down. The remove the hoop from the machine and use a pair of applique scissors, cut along the outside edge of the applique, then place the hoop back on the machine and resume sewing.
CAD Cut
If you do a lot of applique work you might want to invest in a CAD cutter to use to cut them in-house. You can export a cut file from your software to run the machine and to assure that the applique is going to fit in your design perfectly.
Laser or water-jet cut
If you use appliques infrequently it would probably be best to send your digitized file to an applique cutting facility, the turn around time for this service can be as quick as 24-48 hours.
If your applique are large enough you might want to invest in a laser cutter or a beam laser. The advantage of a beam laser is that it allows you to cut either single or multiple appliques on the embroidery machine, which expedites the entire process.

Why Does Thread Break?

Thread breaks for a number of very different reasons. Some are logical and obvious, such as threading route, thread quality, and tension, but there are other contibuting factors that can also cause embroidery thread to break.
Thread
While there are many different thread weights and types that can be used to create embroidery, most embroiderers choose either 40 weight rayon or polyester. Because polyester is a synthetic product it has a much longer shelf life than rayon, which is produced from natural celulose fibers. If you are using rayon threads try to store it in climate controlled environment, and try to use the thread that has been in your inventory the longest first.
Tension
Proper thread tension is achieved by creating a balance between the top thread and the bobbin thread. If you place too much tension on the top thread even if it in proportion to the bobbin thread it will break.
Threading
The first thing you might want to check when you are experiencing any type of stitching quality problem is the threading route, this is simple to fix and often the simplest solution is the last to be checked.
Presser Foot
A bent presser foot can hit the needle and damage the needle and break the thread.
Needle Plate
A gouge or burr in the area of the hole in your needle plate can also cause the thread to fray and break.
Needle
Needles do not last forever and if you expeience any type of needle depth, presser foot or needle plate problem change the needle also at the same time to assure that it isn't contributing to the problem.
Of course there are many other possible causes for threaad breaks but these are the most common ones that I have found and are a good point of departure when trying to sove the often fustrating problem of consistant thread breaks.

embroidering on knits

Every type of fabric has its own unique charactoristics, and its own challenges. Knits are no exception, needle type, backing, hooping, thread tension and proper digitizing all need to work together to produce the perfect end result.
Needle
To avoid cutting the fibers of the knit use a ball-point needle, a 75/11 should work well for any weight knit.
Backing
Tear-away backing is always the prefered choice as it is the least labor intensive to remove. however some knits are too delicate and can tear during the embroidery process so you need to turn to a no-show or organza backing which will afford more support without adding more bulk to the garment.
ToppingIf you are embroidering on a knit with a patterned texture such as pique, herringbone, birds-eye or cableknit you probably want to use a topping to flatten out the surface before you embroidery upon it.
Hooping
you do not want to stretch to knit in the hoop (with the exception of Spandex, which should be slightly stretched) you want to maake sure that your backing is tight in the hoop and the knit lies flat on top of it.
Tension
Because knits are less stable than woven fabrics they will cause satin stitches to pull in more and become thinner, especially if your thread tension is too tight. It is important to set your top tension looser than you would for a woven fabric and make sure that you bobbin tension is also loosened to make sure they are working together.
Digitizing
When digitizing for knits underlay and increased pull compensation are very important concerns. Use a lattice underlay under fills to minimise distortion and perpendicular underlay under satins to create a good base for the top stitching.
Embroidering on knits is no more difficult than anything else. If you understand why problems may occur they are much more easily remedied.